What does this rating mean?
About this restaurant
If the fascinating glimpses via the ‘live’ plasma screens of the kitchen mise-en-scène ever fail to engage the diner, then there are always the spectacular views over the Mediterranean and Niçois countryside. But the word ‘live’ could equally well refer to the spirited and vibrant cooking of Frédéric Gallant, a northern transplant to the seductive tastes and aromas of Provence. His enthusiasm certainly shines through a menu based on good produce from the local markets, the region and the sea.
The restaurant is located in the pretty village of Falicon, near Mont Chauve, remarkably only 15 minutes from the centre of Nice. The modern interior is tasteful and low-key and a harmonious setting for a three-course set lunch (27€) that might feature iced Provençal tomato soup with avocado bavarois, roast scorpion fish with baby vegetables in a lemon and basil jus, and an assortment of home-made ices.
The set-menu theme continues at dinner, with three permutations (42-75€) offering a choice of fish or meat main courses: filet of John Dory, perhaps or fillet of beef in a herb crust. Superb Provençal vegetables such as violet artichokes, aubergines, fennel, courgettes and Nice olives are treated with due respect and enhanced by a judicious use of interesting spices and flavourings.
The cooking of Frédéric Galand is based on the value of the true flavours of the beautiful produce of the local market, the produce of the region and of the sea.
It is good to see a restaurant take advantage of the diversity of species in the Mediterranean on the doorstep, and we also appreciate the genuine enthusiasm and intention of the chef to do the right thing.
He tells us he stopped using bluefin tuna two years ago, will not serve farmed fish such as salmon because of the problem of fish feed, and generally tries his best to source responsibly. Nor, he adds, does he like to see waste of any kind – in or out of the water!
His menu has a good mix of fish and shellfish – we wish him well and would only encourage him to convey the geographical origin of menu items to his customers. We think it would only enhance his standing and reputation if he explained the lobster came from New England, for example, or the haddock from the North Sea. And it has to be a good marketing move, as well as a principled stand, to state on the menu he only serves wild fish that have been responsibly served.
« Return to the restaurant index